Choosing A Lash Style That Suits Your Eye Shape
We do not believe in trend styles. The lash map is decided by your bone structure and lash growth, not by what is in this season's lookbook. The framework below is the one our artists use at consultation; it is not a rulebook, but it is a reasonable starting point if you would like to think about your set before you book.
Step one: which eye shape category
Lay a finger flat across the outer corner of one eye. Notice three things:
- Where the lid crease sits — hidden, low, or high.
- Where the outer corner points — downward, level, or upturned.
- How prominent the eye is — deep-set, neutral, or protruding.
Almost every eye in our chair falls into one of six shape families. The shorthand we use internally: almond, round, monolid, hooded, downturned, upturned.
Step two: pick a goal, not a style name
Style names — cat-eye, doll, kitten, squirrel — mean different things to different artists. We translate every style request back to one of four goals before we map:
- Lift — bring the outer corner up
- Open — widen the apparent eye
- Round — soften an angular shape
- Elongate — stretch the eye laterally
You can stack goals (lift + open, for instance), but past two it starts to fight the underlying anatomy.
Step three: match shape to goal
This is the simplest pairing chart we use:
- Almond — the most flexible shape. Any goal works. Default to a soft lift for evening, a quiet round for the office.
- Round — usually wants elongation. A C-curl peaked at the outer two-thirds reads as "doll" without going cartoonish.
- Monolid — lift, with care. Heavy mid-section length closes the eye; keep the volume outer-half and the curl on the stronger end (CC or D).
- Hooded — open and lift. Avoid heavy fans at the inner third; they sit under the hood and disappear.
- Downturned — lift, full stop. The outer corner needs a strong curl (D or even DD) tapered down sharply at the very last 2 mm.
- Upturned — round or open. Avoid more outer-corner lift; the eye is already there.
Step four: weight check
We finish every consultation with a gentle tug test on three random natural lashes. If they bend under their own weight before we even touch them, we step the extension diameter down (0.07 to 0.05 for Russian Volume, 0.12 to 0.10 for classic). The goal is always a set that the natural lash can carry for at least three weeks — not the densest possible day-one finish.
"If your artist did not look at your lash health at consultation, that's the question to ask. Density without health is a 14-day set."
What if I just want it to look like Hailey Bieber?
We will look at the reference, then we will look at your eyes, then we will tell you honestly how close to that finish we can get with your shape. Often we can get within 90 % — the remaining 10 % is bone structure and we are not going to fight it.